Previous entries of Henri Julien's Diary

Sept. 5th-We came to a coulee or run where we found little water and still less speed for the horses. We were leaving the Cypress Hills for Bow River which our guide told us was only 60 miles off in a straight line.

Sept. 6th-We unexpectedly struck a river which proved to be the South Saskatchewan, broad, rapid and clear. There we encamped for the night, having killed some more buffalo. There was no grass for the horses, however, and they were in consequence much pulled down.

Sept. 7th-We moved on some miles, but could not get to the river on account of the steep banks.

Sept. 8th-The same thing happened. Our horses still suffered very much. The weather was rainy and cold, and we found no wood, but plenty of "buffalo chips".

Sept. 9th-In the night, four of our horses died and three were left in a dying state. Several on being lead down to the coulee could not get up.

Sept 10th-We passed the forks of the Saskatchewan after having had them previously reconnoitered as their safety was suspected. Passing on thence we took up a northerly direction to the banks of the Belly River. Several men, including two officers, were sent forward to find a suitable ford, taking two days' rations along with them. Another party of hunters was sent out for buffalo as our provisions were getting rather low.

Sept. 13th-Some men returned with buffalo meat: they had a very cold night of it. Walker returned from up the river, finding no signs of Whoop-up trail. He went about 30 miles in a southerly direction. We broke up camp in the afternoon and returned to the old camp of the 9th. We found innumberable skunks about the place and a few badgers. In the evening, Leveille and Denny arrived from the upper part of Bow River about 10 miles; they found no water and no grass. Welsh, appointed to the com- mand of "B'' troop, crossed the river on the way to Fort Edmonton, but was ordered to follow us to Sweet Grass Hills, moving south east. On the following day we advanced over a somewhat rolling country, dry and sandy. The horses and cattle continued to suffer very much. Sweet Grass Buttes showed blue in the distance.

Sept. 17th-We spent this day on the same track with nothing to relieve its monotony except a buffalo hunt, which, however, was unsuccessful. The buttes were not visible owing to the mist. The next night was very cold but the morning dawned clear, and the buttes were plainly visible, covered with snow. The prairies assumed a rolling surface as we came to the gradual elevation of the buttes. Moving towards the middle one. we crossed a wide running stream and halted on its banks. We supposed it was Milk River. In the vicinity we discovered the remains of an Indian camp in which were clothes and two plates. There is a thick coal seam on the bank of the coulee here, which burns well, having little sulphur in it. We used it for forging purposes. We thought the Boundary Commission's depot was at the western end of the West Butte, and the next day Macleod found the trail to it about six miles south of us. On reaching the depot, however, we found that it had been broken-up and there were no signs of recent occupation. Thornton and Morreau having gone out hunting together got separated somehow and Thornton had a hard time of it. His horse broke down, and after remaining with it for two days, he was forced to leave it behind and travel on foot. When he reached camp at last, he had been out five days. was completely exhausted, coatless, and nearly starved with cold.

We lost 18 horses from the 9th of September, making 48 since we left Toronto.

Sept. 21st-After riding along smartly, we camped at the base of the Middle Butte. The Sweet Grass Hills consist of three elevations known to the Métis as "Les Trois Buttes''. They are in a line with about four miles of intervening space, measuring from one extremity to the other about 23 miles. They are a notable landmark, being on the boundary line between Canada and the United States, the western Butte on the line being on British, the others on American soil.

Col. French, with Macleod, Brisebois, Nevitt and the guide Leveille, left us for Fort Benton. The colonel was to catch up with us on the road to Wood Mountain. They took four carts with them.

After moving along for several days we found ourselves on the banks of Milk River, the bed of which was perfectly dry We next moved to the boundary line and Wild Horse Lake and camped near a marsh south of it. There we found good water and grass in abundance. Here we decided upon awaiting the return of Col French, a determination which was justified by the fair weather we enjoyed and the number of ducks and wild geese affording us plenty of sport on the lake. The men employed their spare time in thoroughly bathing and exterminating the vermin, the latter operation being carried out by the aid of juniper oil.

Sept. 29th-The Commissioner arrived accompanied by an American guide and Leveille, a nephew of our old guide, originally from Sorel, and a man of some means. He had been in the North-West for 20 years. Nineteen horses were bought for the force from the Americans at Fort Benton. We also got provisions in the shape of potatoes, syrup, etc.

Oct 1st-We moved 10 miles to the west of Milk River, finding water in pools and good feed. At this point Col. French killed the last buffalo at noon halt.

Oct. 2nd-We moved 23 miles before dining and camped on the border of a small spring fed by springs. Here a terrific fire took place on the prairie, affording us a sublime spectacle.

Oct. 10th-We travelled to Lake Marron, a nice large sheet of pure water. The feed in the environs, however, was scanty. At this point another of our prairie experiences was repeated. A stampede of horses took place causing a great deal of annoyance and fatigue.

Oct. 11th-We crossed the White Mud River, where Sioux were encamped. Twenty-three lodges of them were encamped about nine miles on the east side. Col. French, Dr. Kittson and myself, with servants, and guides, arrived at Cripple camp early in the morning of the . . . of Oct. We found the boys and horses in fine condition.

Oct....-We camped once more along the shores of Old Wives Lake, from which we struck the trail to Lake Qu'Appelle. There I separated from my companions after a long journey of five months.

Our mission was over. The force had accomplished the duty for which it had been sent out, and was about to be distributed in different quarters. I therefore resolved on returning to Canada - "Home, Sweet Home".

I take this occasion to repeat to Col. French, Dr. Kittson and the officers and men of the Force, my acknowledgment of the uniform kindness which I received at their hands throughout the entire march. I must express also my sense of respect for them as men and for the worthy manner in which they performed the arduous duties imposed upon them by the Government.

With a number of Mêtis for companions and guides I bade adieu to the Force at Ou'Appelle and reached Fort Pelly on the 21st of October.

On the 28th, I arrived at Fort Ellice, and on the 5th of November, at Fort Garry. I tarried some days at the latter place.

November 24th-I found myself back at Fort Dufferin, where the headquarters of the Force were already established. A few days more and I was at length secure in my little cabinet, finding very little change in the six months of absence.

My trip has been worth a great deal to me in health, experience and knowledge. I would not exchange it for many a more pretentious voyage.

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