Previous entries of Henri Julien's Diary

Aug. 6th-We reached an elevation which bears the fragrant name of Dung Hill, formed by a succession of hillocks. The ascent was quite easy and we found there good pasture and water. On the north side of the mountain there was plenty of wood of which we took in an ample supply as we were certain to meet none before reaching Lake La Vieille. Near a spring of cold water in the same locality we saw a few log huts, where Métis hunters winter every year, for this is the entrance to the buffalo region. We saw some antelope in the vicinity but did not succeed in killing any.

Aug. 8th-After travelling a very hilly country we reached the shore of Lake La Vieille. or Old Wives Lake. This is a sheet of water of more than usual importance. Its dimensions are 10 miles in breadth by 30 in length; the lake and the creek are historical.

Many years ago, a party of Assiniboines passing here had in their train an old woman who was unable to work or even to walk. Proving a hindrance to the progress of the party, she was left on the margin of the lake by her own children. Rations for a few days were laid beside her, but when these were expended, the poor forlorn creature died a lingering death from starvation. This barbarous habit of abandoning the aged and infirm to their fate is too frequent among the Indians of the North-West, more especially among the Assiniboines who seem to surpass all other tribes in deeds of heartlessness.

About 20 miles from the camp. Col. French found a human skull, which must have lain on the prairie for 10 or 12 years. He could not be positive whether it was that of a white man or an Indian.

The water of Old Wives Lake is deeply impregnated with sulphate of soda. It emits a disagreeable smell to the windward as of decayed weeds steeped in brine. The effect of the odour is very nauseating and one cannot stop long upon the banks. Men and horses were actively purged by it. This sulphate of soda is found as a thick deposit on the shores of most of the small neighbouring lakes. No grass grows in the neighbourhood; it is a Dead Sea country. Shooting, however, is very plentiful. Pelicans, ducks, geese and bastard plovers were in abundance. The colonel killed a pelican of immense size and all white, measuring eight feet from tip to tip. About five miles onward. along the shore of the lake, we met Major Macleod who had that morning arrived from the special mission to which I referred previously. He brought with him 4,000 pounds of pemmican and a cartload of dried meat. He did not succeed. however, in getting horses on account of the exorbitant prices demanded for them: $200 were asked for a small pony.

Travelling about four and one half miles we got near the bank of Old Wives Creek. where we found plenty of good water and feed with wood at a short distance. The water of the creek itself is not good as it holds more or less sulphate of soda in solution, but the branch falling into it is very good and cool. It is fringed with high bushes bearing huckleberries and cherries, the former were rather dry as it was late in the season for them, but they were acceptable all the same and men feasted on them.

There was a camp of Sioux Indians near us. They struck their wigwams, about seven in number, to camp about three quarters of a mile from us. They numbered about thirty men. women and children. We were to have a pow-wow with them on the following day. At La Vieille we were 475 miles from Dufferin.

Aug. 13th-The great pow-wow took place. The Indians and wives came half way to our camp at an early hour and waited with great patience for the appointed hour. At 10 a.m., they were informed that the chief of the Red Coats was ready to receive the Red Children of the Great Mother who lives across the big waters. They came marching in line, their wives behind, the chief holding in his right hand the insignia of royalty in front, chanting something in a dirge-like monotonous tone, almost drowned in the clarion notes of our trumpets belching forth glad sounds of welcome. They were conducted to a kind of pavilion made by putting two large square tents into one. There they were introduced to Lieut.-Col. French, and a general shaking of hands all round took place with a "how'' in a low gutteral tone from each warrior. We at first met them with closed lips as we did not know what to say. The usual How-do-you-do would have sounded ridiculous and the Happy-to-see-you would have been a lie on our lips, as they were a most wretched lot of the grand and proud Sioux. However, we soon got into the "How" of our red brothers, and ''How, how'' in higher tones were heard all round. After they were squatted, the men on one side of the pavilion and the wives on the other, the pipe of peace, of red stone inlaid with silver, and having a long flat stem, was filled with kinnic-kinnic by the chief's henchman and passed around filling the air with white smoke and a peculiarly agreeable odour. Col. French had his staff and other officers about him, all in full uniform, some sitting on rude benches and others-myself among them-squatted in front of the colonel's table in the most approved fashion. The force were elbowing each other outside of the entrance. trying to get a glimpse of what was going on inside. First some ten pounds of black plug tobacco were given, which were counted by the henchman and wrapped up in a blanket. The henchman received all the presents, and it is his duty to distribute them equally to all the warriors. This he does faithfully. After a few preliminaries one of the warriors got up shook hands all round and then made a speech. It is seldom that a chief undertakes to address an assembly, but always has his speakers with him whom he advises in council beforehand.

The substance of the speech interpreted by Mr. Leveille was as follows:

"The great spirit gave the land to all his children We want to know why you come here and where you are going. All who have hair on their chins are rich; we have clean chins and are poor. I am telling no lies. We had horses and land on the other side, but the Yankees lied to us. They gave us drink and killed us and took our lands away. The Sioux wished to keep quiet, but the Yankees wronged them drove them away with their big guns.

"England never did that to her red children. What now is wanted? We have nothing to kill the buffalo with; we want guns and ammunition; we can get nothing without arms; nothing to use against the Yankees when we go against them. They wi!l kill us.

"We heard you were coming, a big man. I will get my children to help you where you go."

After this there was again a shaking of hands and Lieut. Col. French answered.

"My brothers wish to know why we come this way. I will tell you. The White Mother who lives beyond the great waters sent me. She heard the Yankees came to kill you and give you bad whiskey. The white mother has white children, and red children. and black children. She loves them all alike. She sent these braves to punish those that kill them (How, How). We have been travelling in this direction for three moons, and will go on for the space of another moon (How). We want to capture those who killed the white mother's red children (How). We do not want the land of the Dakota nor any one else's (How, How). We have guns only for our warriors, but will give you ammunition. calico and tea."

The presents were then brought in, with a little flour and flints added. After a while a stalwart warrior belonging to another band, came forward and made the following speech:

"All our bravest men are dead. We are now without friends. Long ago my chief said that we would see white warriors to defend us; now I believe what he said. I never saw men like this before and I am glad to see them and will give them good names and will try to be kind forever. Give us ammunition and we will assist you. Now we have nothing. We want bullets.

"One of our chief's sons died last year; he told us to keep to this country. I have done so and am glad that I did. We heard long ago of your coming. We said we would wait and meet you. Perhaps you would give us ammunition and arms. Anyway I am glad to see you. If you want me, I will do all I can for you. I am not a chief, but like to say a few words. I am like a child I cannot speak well."

Here ended the pow-wow. A few rounds of the pipe, shaking of hands and they were off to their camp.

More of Henri Julien's Diary

Back to Our Heritage Home Page